Rwanda Stillness, Story & Soul

Rwanda is a country of astonishing diversity, where mountain peaks give way to rolling hills, and thick rainforests stretch into tea-covered valleys. Known as the Land of a Thousand Hills, it offers a sense of natural harmony and a quiet dignity that shapes every encounter. Wildlife thrives across its protected landscapes, and vibrant traditions continue to echo through its communities. The country is known not only for its beauty but for its commitment to conservation, innovation, and healing. 

This journey with Travel Designer Storm Keen was about refinement. We came to listen, observe, and experience each detail that shapes the journeys we offer. We came to ensure that every lodge, guide, and moment lives up to what a Rothschild Safari must be.

The Spirit of Kigali

Kigali rises from the hills in elegant layers. It is one of the cleanest, most welcoming cities. There is noticeable care in how the city is maintained. Public spaces bloom with greenery. It feels modern and authentic, with an energy that reflects pride and a sense of purpose. Our stay at Kigali provided comfort and efficiency, accompanied by gracious service and the kind of ease we look for in a first stop. One morning, we visited the Kigali Genocide Memorial. The stillness there holds weight. The stories shared are deeply moving, yet also speak to the resilience and extraordinary spirit of renewal that define Rwanda today.

Akagera National Park

Driving northeast, we passed through villages alive with community. It was the last Saturday of the month, a time set aside for Umuganda, Rwanda's national day of service. Everyone participates. From children to elders, the streets came alive with purpose. Roads swept, gardens tended, infrastructure repaired. It is a vision of unity that remains rare.

We reached Magashi Lodge just before sunset. It sits above Lake Rwanyakazinga in a private section of Akagera. The lodge blends understated luxury with a bold landscape. From the deck, we watched hippos surface and waterbirds glide low over the reeds. That evening, we ventured out by boat. As we passed a bend in the shoreline, two leopards emerged. One paused at the water's edge, its reflection shimmering. Moments like that arrive without ceremony. We returned in the blue hour, quietly reflective, carrying a sense of reverence for what we had witnessed.

An Interlude in Kigali

After two nights at Magashi, we circled back to Kigali for a stay at The Retreat. This intimate boutique hotel is quietly tucked into the lush greenery near the heart of the city. It highlights Rwandan artistry, environmental awareness, and thoughtful hospitality in every detail. The property features serene gardens, an inviting saltwater pool, and a wellness area offering spa treatments and open-air yoga sessions. Guests can also take part in culinary experiences, including garden-to-table dining and traditional Rwandan cooking classes. Every space is designed to feel intentional, from the locally crafted furniture to the calming palette that mirrors the surrounding nature.

Nyungwe Forest

From Kigali, we turned south toward the forest. Nyungwe stretches across Rwanda's southwest. This is one of the most biologically rich forests in Africa, home to more than a dozen primate species. We stayed at Nyungwe House, set beside a working tea estate. Morning fog moved slowly across the canopy. Bird calls echoed through the trees.

Our guides met us at first light for the chimpanzee trek. The forest was cool and damp, its floor thick with ferns and twisted roots. We followed narrow trails until our trackers raised a hand. High above, a family of chimpanzees played and groomed in the treetops. They moved through the branches with ease, seemingly unaffected by our presence. 

Following the morning trek, we walked the canopy walkway suspended 200 feet (60 meters) above the forest floor. The view revealed a sweep of green in every direction, broken only by sunlight filtering through the leaves and the flutter of birds darting between branches.

Back at Nyungwe House, the afternoon unfolded at a gentler pace. A tea tasting offered a quiet connection to the surrounding estate, followed by a massage that brought a welcome rest. There is a harmony to the experience here. Active mornings in the wild. Restful afternoons beside the fire. Dinners that feel like a celebration.

Volcanoes National Park

We continued north toward the Virunga Mountains. The drive took us through valleys filled with banana palms and terraced farms. That night, we stayed at Bisate Lodge. The villas, built into the curve of an eroded volcanic cone, are warm and sculptural in design. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer views of the Virunga peaks. Each room is furnished with handwoven textiles and design touches that reflect the country's heritage. In the morning, we woke to the mist lifting from the forest and the distant calls of birds.

Our gorilla trek began early. Francois, our guide, greeted us with a walking stick and stories of his years in the forest. He once worked alongside Dian Fossey and carries with him a deep knowledge of the mountain gorillas and their families. We trekked for just over an hour before reaching the Amahoro group. There were nineteen gorillas in this family. The young ones tumbled across each other in mock wrestling matches. The silverback watched us with calm eyes, then turned back to his meal, completely at ease. It was a moment of still connection, full of power and grace.

We stood quietly, absorbing the presence of these extraordinary creatures. Time seemed to move differently there. There was no urgency, only the simple act of watching and being watched. Both Storm and I felt an immense sense of privilege, not just for having witnessed such beauty, but for being allowed into their world, even briefly.

After the trek, we continued to Sabinyo Silverback Lodge for the night. This property, perched high on the hillside, offers sweeping views across the surrounding peaks. The fireplaces were already lit when we arrived. The mist rolled in as we sat outside, wrapped in blankets, watching the light fade from the sky.

A Graceful Farewell

On our final day, we set off to trek golden monkeys. Smaller and more agile than gorillas, they move in playful bursts. We found them in a clearing, feasting on bamboo shoots and tumbling over each other in fast motion. It was a lighter, joyful end to our time in the forest.

After the trek, we visited the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. The architecture is striking, with glass-walled research spaces surrounded by native gardens. It serves as a hub for conservation, education, and scientific research. Meeting with the local team gave us a better sense of how travelers contribute to Rwanda's long-term efforts.

Our last night was spent at Gorilla’s Nest. The lodge sits within a landscape of eucalyptus, tree ferns, and volcanic stone. Villas feel both open and private, and the service is remarkable. That evening, we sat together at dinner and spoke of what we had seen. The people. The wildlife. The land. There is a calm here that lives beneath everything.

Rwanda does not compete for attention. It holds its power with grace. In its forests and communities, it teaches the value of presence. This is a destination that lingers in the heart, offering moments of deep connection and lasting transformation.

If Rwanda is calling to you, we would be delighted to craft a journey that reveals its soul in all the ways that matter. Talk to a Travel Designer